Dweller Power https://dwellerpower.com Everything Home Improvement Fri, 02 Sep 2022 19:25:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.0.2 https://dwellerpower.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cropped-Dweller-Power-Icon-32x32.png Dweller Power https://dwellerpower.com 32 32 How a Bench Vise Works https://dwellerpower.com/how-a-bench-vise-works/ https://dwellerpower.com/how-a-bench-vise-works/#respond Fri, 02 Sep 2022 19:25:29 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6769 Read more]]> A vice is made up of two parallel jaws that operate in unison to grasp an object firmly and hold it in place until it is released.

One jaw is fixed in place in the vice due to its connection to the immovable body part, while the other jaw is free to move.

A threaded screw links the jaws inside the vice’s body and is controlled by a handle located on the exterior of the vice’s body. The handle is placed on the vice’s exterior.

The handle exerts pressure on the screw, which in turn moves the screw-controlled sliding jaw. When the handle is cranked counter-clockwise, the sliding jaw is moved away from the fixed jaw, thus opening the gap between them. When the handle is cranked counter-clockwise, the sliding jaw is pushed closer to the fixed jaw, resulting in the two jaws colliding.

When the jaws are drawn together around a workpiece, the object is firmly held in position, allowing for operations such as sawing, drilling, gluing, and filling.

Now that you know how a Bench Vise Works, you may be interested to shop for the best bench vise in the market.

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Joplin Brothers Vice and Tool History https://dwellerpower.com/joplin-brothers-vice-and-tool-history/ https://dwellerpower.com/joplin-brothers-vice-and-tool-history/#respond Fri, 02 Sep 2022 01:28:32 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6762 Read more]]> Joplin Brothers was an Australian company that manufactured jacks, vices, tyre pumps, pipe bending tools (dubbed ‘Plumber’s Mates’), and heavy duty jacks over the course of its existence. These products were typically designed and manufactured for a variety of customers, most notably the Department of Main Roads.

Are you interested in learning more about them and their history?

Knowing their history not only deepens your knowledge about bench vises, you will also know how the top best bench vises came about!

Continue reading!

Joplin Brothers 1920s

According to Mardi Joplin, her father, Fearon, and his brother Max were forced to drop out of school in 1923 owing to their father’s serious financial problems. They took up apprenticeships in Sydney and returned to Eastwood by steam train in the evenings after attending lectures at the Technical College. They would then work in their backyard shed to launch their company, and once it proved financially viable, they were able to pursue it full-time.

The Daily Telegraph announced on 24 August 1927 that Fearon H. Joplin had passed the Stage III test for his Electrical Fitter trade certification the previous July. The phases seem to have continued all the way up to X. (10).

The following year, on 3 February 1928, the same newspaper announced that Maxwell G. Joplin had completed his Stage II Fitting and Machining exams.

Joplin Brothers 1930s

Joplin Brothers Ltd. was incorporated in New South Wales on the 27th August 1930 with a capital investment of £2000, as published in the Daily Commercial News and Shipping List on September 10th of that year. F. H. Joplin (Fearon Henry), Linda M. Joplin, M. G. Joplin (Maxwell George), G. C. Joplin, L.F. Watt, T.A. Barry, and R. V. Bridekirk were listed as subscribers (Robert, I believe). The firm was characterized as a “automobile enterprise in all of its manifestations.” In 1912, The Hobart Daily Post identified a T.A. Barry as “Alderman T.A. Barry, Grand secretary, Grand Lodge of NSW” – perhaps an investor.

Fearon filed a patent application (2128/31, which was granted the following year) on the 5th February 1931 with the purpose of improving the design of tiny electric motors, such as those used in sewing machines. The patent is available.

On the 28th December 1932, The Construction and Real Estate Journal reported that Joplin Bros. Ltd. had been granted permission to expand their workshop at 18 Wentworth Road, Eastwood.

Bridekirk was engaged in the establishment of Tec. Art (A’asia) Ltd. in 1934, implying that he was more of an investor than a collaborator with Joplin.

On 24 February 1936, the Cumberland Argus and Fruitgrowers Advocate stated that Messrs Joplin Bros, of Wentworth-street, Eastwood, had determined that a community complaint concerning noise from Joplin’s business lacked validity. Their hours of operation were listed as 7.45 a.m. to 5 p.m., with Saturday work reserved for “emergency situations.”

The Cumberland Argus and Fruitgrowers Advocate stated on 14 October 1937 that Joplin Brothers Pty. Ltd. was to construct two industrial buildings on Victoria Road, Rydalmere, valued at £1800. Joplin Brothers were described as a producer of vices, hand grinders, and vehicle lifting jacks with an established plant in Eastwood’s Wentworth-street.

Another mention to Joplin Bros Pty. Ltd. of Eastwood, NSW occurs in 1938 – on October 7, 1938, the Sydney Morning Herald published an advertisement for the Joplin Air-Stream Tyre Pump:

The Commonwealth of Australia Gazette stated on September 21st 1939 that Joplin had delivered lifting jacks to the Director of Artillery for £810 (about $71,000AUD in 2020).

On 4 October of that year, Joplin Brothers Pty. Ltd. filed a patent application (3403/39) for an improvement to automobile and truck lifting jacks. Their concept was to enhance the conventional roadside vehicle lifting jack by engaging it on the wheel rim above the axle cap. The patent is available.

Joplin Brothers 1940s

Mardi informs that the Joplin plant in Rydalmere was active during WWII.

On 8 November 1944, “Construction” reported that Joplin Bros., Ltd., of Euston and South Streets, Rydalmere, had won the contract to provide tools to the NSW Main Roads Department. £250/6/3 was the value of the tender. The Argus reported on the 28th June of that year that R.V.Bridekirk (as secretary) had been appointed as a director of Tecnico Ltd., of Sydney, which I believe further establishes his non-involvement in the day-to-day operations of Joplin.

In 1945, Fearon married. Max lived his whole life as a bachelor.

On March 20, 1947, The Daily Telegraph published a “Town Talk” in which their choice of spelling for “vice” was criticized. At this time, it seems as if they were a well-known producer of vices…

The Sydney Morning Herald reported on 14 January 1948 that L.F. Watt had been named a director of Tecnico as well.

Joplin Brothers 1950s

Nothing yet…

Joplin Brothers 1960s

Mardi informs me that Fearon believed the cast iron vices were insufficiently robust and sought an alternative. The brothers were successful in developing a vice that could be pressed out of a sheet of 14 gauge steel “steel – creating not only the vices themselves, but also the equipment used to manufacture them. They were patented and introduced into the marketplace in the late 1960s. In any case, after the nation adopted the metric system, it seems to have created some difficulty for Joplin Bros, since 14 “Steel became unavailable, necessitating the retooling of machines to accommodate the new metric measurements. Additionally, this information may aid in determining the age of certain Joplin-fabricated vices…

Australian patent number 16,046/62 was filed on 2nd April 1962 with preliminary specifications and on 22nd March 1963 with full specifications. Max was identified as the inventor, and the patent was granted on July 1, 1965.

On 19 May 1966, the Commonwealth of Australia Gazette announced that Joplin Brothers Pty. Ltd. had won a $400 tender to provide hydraulic jacks to the government. (NH255/2/12)

Joplin Brothers 1970s

Siddons acquired the assets of Joplin Bros Pty. Ltd. in 1973. (and, incidentally, Dawn). Fearon was reportedly opposed to selling it, but Max desired a change, and Fearon died in 1975.

Fred Williams, who began his career at Joplin Bros as an apprentice and stayed for almost 40 years, became control of the jack side of the company. At the moment, I do not have any more information about it.

According to the Government Gazette of the State of New South Wales, on 25 March 1974, the company chose to be wound up voluntarily. The same gazette stated on September 13th that the final meeting for the liquidation of the business was conducted on September 9th of that year.

According to the ASIC record, the business Joplin Brothers Pty. Ltd. was deregistered on September 2, 1977.

There is a business named Joplin Jacks Pty Ltd. that was registered in 1987 (formerly AYMPAT PTY LTD) – I have no clue whether it is related to the prior company. It seems to be connected to Graham Rubber. In 2017, Joplin Jacks seems to have been de-registered. Additionally, a Joplin Jacks (NSW) PTY LTD (Camela Pty Ltd) was established in 1982 and ceased operations in 1992. I’m unable to locate any information on that one.

A Siddons brochure (R4/74, which indicates 1974 to me) promotes Sidchrome, Dawn, and Joplin goods with the following pitch:

Sidchrome, Dawn, and Joplin are Siddons Pty. Ltd. divisions having production facilities in Heidelberg West, Clifton Hill, and North Coburg, Victoria, as well as Rydalmere, New South Wales.

For over 30 years, the Joplin factory has manufactured bench vices, and while steel vices of various brands have been available, they have been prohibitively expensive for the majority of users. However, the Sidchrome (Joplin) all-steel vice has solved this problem and made a steel vice affordable to everyone. All Joplin items, including engineers’ and plumbers’ tools, are made of the finest quality materials and are designed to fulfill the requirements of today’s industrial customers.

Quality control standards include rigorous inspection of production processes and sample examination at all stages. Siddons Research Laboratories, located next to the Heidelberg West facility, conduct strength, hardness, and finish testing on samples. This laboratory is located in an air-conditioned facility and is equipped to conduct testing and chemical analysis under optimum scientific circumstances.

The all-steel vice mentioned is a fabrication.

Joplin Brothers 1980s

Graeme brought me a scan of a Paul’s 1980 catalogue, which shows an identical Sidchrome vice design to that featured in the 1968 Blackwoods brochure:

Additionally, the 1984 Dunlop-IBC catalogue lists many comparable vices:

Mardi Joplin – the aforementioned daughter of Fearon Joplin – contacted me and shared some fascinating information with me. She stated that the company manufactured 10 ton, 500 ton, and possibly 1,000 ton jacks, and she recalls Fearon telling her that he was asked to build a jack to lift massive cement slabs that had fallen during the construction of the Gladesville Bridge in Sydney, and only had a few inches clearance, necessitating the use of a jack.

She also stated that R.V. Bridekirk was unfamiliar to her and was not engaged in the company’s operations, making it more probable that he was an investor or something similar. Additionally, she recalls the following:

Fearon served as General Manager, while Max served as Production Manager. After the workers returned home for the day, Fearon worked at the factory, repairing equipment and developing new ones.

Anthony (Fearon’s son) would work there on weekends.

Barry and Garth, two of Fearon’s other sons, would sometimes work there.

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Best Bench Vise under $100 https://dwellerpower.com/best-bench-vise-under-100/ https://dwellerpower.com/best-bench-vise-under-100/#respond Thu, 01 Sep 2022 23:26:25 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6772 Read more]]> Numerous people are on the lookout for the best bench vise inside the $100 price range. We performed a study on the best bench vises available for the money and provide our results below.

Bear in mind that this is our list and may not reflect the views of others; we all have our own choices for the finest vise maker

Top 5 Best Bench Vise Under $100

Our assessments of price vs quality were conducted via the use of consumer websites, manufacturer websites, and discussion forums, among other sources.

We highly encourage you to do your own research in order to get the best bench vise under $100.

Other than these Budget Picks, we also have the full Best Bench Vise Review!

#1 Yost 455 Vise

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Features:

  • 4.5 inch jaw width
  • 0.125 to 2″ pipe clamping
  • Light duty
  • 360 degrees swivel base
  • Replaceable top jaws
  • Grooved pipe grip

Review:

There has been considerable dispute about whether Yost vises are produced in the United States or China, and it seems that they are.

Due to its small size and moderate weight, this vise is suitable for minor and light-duty tasks. Many folks suggest greasing the vise immediately upon receipt after purchase. When it is delivered, it is just barely lubricated.

The handle bar seems to be rather fragile, and I’ve read many times that it bends somewhat, but not to the point of being useless.

This Yost swiveled bench vice is adequate for light use or at home; but, for heavier use or in the shop, I suggest a vise with a larger opening.

Only the 4.5′′ is often found for less than $100. The bigger variants of this Yost vise for bench installation are more expensive.

Pros:

  • 4.5 inch jaw width
  • 0.125 to 2″ pipe clamping
  • Replaceable top jaws
  • 360-degree swivel
  • Cast Iron body
  • Small anvil surface

Cons:

  • Made in China
  • Not for heavy duty jobs
  • Needs lubrication
  • Crank bar bends a little easy

#2 Tekton 54006 6 Inch Swivel Base Vise

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Features:

  • 120 degree swivel base
  • Available in 4,6 and 8 inch
  • Small anvil for light duty use

Review:

The most often reported issue was that the mounting holes in the base were intended to be 3/8 inch in diameter but were really approximately 5/16 inch in diameter.

Numerous people have reported pleasure with this Tekton vise after using it to work on their guns. This kind of evidence suggests that it is designed for light duty applications. Although the anvil is a useful tool, I do not recommend using any vise as an anvil. It is my opinion that it will ultimately cause damage to the cast iron, but I may be wrong.

As a whole, this is a great vice for hobbyists and light users at a price point of less than $100.

We found that the 4 and 6 inch versions are currently available for less than $100. The variant with an 8-inch screen is more costly.

Pros:

  • Mounting template included
  • Reasonable priced
  • Works well

Cons:

  • Made in China
  • Fixed jaw almost flush with work bench
  • Mounting holes are not 3/8 inch but smaller

#3 Performance Tool W3903 Hammer Tough 6″ Bench Vise

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Features:

  • 5 1/4 inch jaw opening
  • Built in anvil
  • 360 degree swivel
  • Powder coated finish

Review:

The Performance W3903 vise exemplifies the adage “you get what you pay for.” Almost all of their vises are reasonably priced, and the quality is sufficient for light to moderate-duty applications. The finish may be a little harsh at times, and it does need more oil once fitted.

In general, this is a decent bench vise with an effective 360-degree swivel. It is generally suggested to avoid excessive use of the built-in anvil, which we have always advised. Other sizes are available in a number of combinations from Performance.

Numerous Performance vises are available for less than $100. Everything else is same except for the larger machinist spinning vises.

Pros:

  • Steel plated jaws
  • magnetic jaws
  • Fairly priced

Cons:

  • Made in China
  • Finish is not to good
  • Does not fit most drill plates
  • Need some greasing

#4 Irwin Heavy-Duty Workshop Vise

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Features:

  • Cast Iron
  • 360 degree swivel
  • Built in anvil
  • Four holes in the base

Review:

At first, I found it a little daunting to go through all of the information on this Irwin 6 inch bench vise 226306ZR. Certain individuals have raised worry that the picture above is not reflective of what they would get. Genuine item seems to be of superior quality.

The term “heavy duty” in the title is rather deceptive.

This is a multi-purpose vise that is suitable for a wide range of applications. The same may be true about the majority of vises priced under $100. Naturally, you’ll have to spend much more on heavy-duty work. With a 360-degree swivel, this vise is perfect for use at home or in a small shop, such as when working on guns or golf clubs.

In general, this is a respectable vice, and although it is not of the best quality, it is enough for daily use. I found that the manufacturer advises against using the anvil as a “real” anvil and instead to use it for light work. Our overall rating of 4.2 is based on our research across several websites.

For less than $100, we were able to locate Irwin bench vises in sizes 4, 5, and 6.

Pros:

  • Irwin quality
  • Reasonable priced
  • Holds out pretty good

Cons:

  • 7% low ratings
  • Not Heavy Duty
  • Little loose

#5 Wilton 11106 6 Inch Bench Vise

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Features:

  • Made from steel
  • Double lock swivel
  • Anvil wok surface
  • Weighs 40 pounds

Review:

As the name implies, this vise is made of steel, not cast iron. Although designed for low duty usage, I’ve heard nothing but positive things about how well it stands up in general.

Despite the fact that this vise is not made in the United States, it seems to have originated in the Czech Republic, which may explain why it has garnered so much praise for its quality.

According to a retired tool and die maker, the product is not normal harbor freight quality, since it is much heavier than comparable manufacturers.

There were no problems with jagged edges, as other Chinese-made items have.

Pros:

  • Replaceable jaws
  • Anvil 4 x 4 inches
  • 90% high ratings

Cons:

  • Swivels only 90 degrees
  • Not made in America?
  • Few complaints about bad quality

It is difficult to tell you which bench vise is the best. It all relies on the purpose for which you want to utilize it and the budget you have available.

It’s difficult to locate a bench vise manufactured in the United States these days, since the majority are made in China. If you discover a brand that is still manufactured in the United States, let us know in the comments. You may find them for around $100, like we did in this article, or you can spend as much as you want on the more heavy duty vises.

In general, a bench vise under $100 is better suited for modest household work and not for heavy or industrial usage. In the future, I’ll probably conduct a study of the best bench vises under $200 and see what I can find in the $100 – $200 pricing bracket.

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What is a Bench Vise Used For? https://dwellerpower.com/what-is-a-bench-vise-used-for/ https://dwellerpower.com/what-is-a-bench-vise-used-for/#respond Thu, 01 Sep 2022 22:31:44 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6765 Read more]]> Vise, also spelt Vice, device with two parallel jaws for holding a workpiece; one jaw is set in place, while the other is moveable by a screw, lever, or cam.

When a vise is used to secure a workpiece during manual activities such as filing, hammering, or cutting, it may be securely fastened to a bench.

In vises intended to hold metallic workpieces, the active jaws are composed of hardened steel plates that are often detachable and have serrations that grasp the workpiece; to protect soft components, the permanent jaws may be covered by temporary jaws made of sheet copper or leather. Pipe vises have twin V-shaped jaws that grasp in four distinct locations rather of just two.

Woodworking vises feature smooth jaws, which are often made of wood, and operate only via friction rather than serrations.

Vises with smooth hardened steel jaws and flat bases are used to secure workpieces on machine tool tables.

These machine vises are portable but may be fastened to the machine table while in use; other features include the ability to rotate the active portion of the vise, allowing for a range of workpiece locations relative to the base. Special jaws may be supplied to clamp components that cannot be clamped with flat jaws.

Below you will learn more about the Types of Vises and Their Uses to further help you decide between which is the best bench vise you need for you trade.

Types of Vises and Their Uses:

Woodworking Vises

The woodworking vise is the most often used kind of vise for woodworking. It is composed of many components. Jaws are the vise components that secure a workpiece. A screw mechanism attaches the workpiece using a pair of jaws, one stationary and one moving parallel to the other. The screw mechanism pushes one jaw in toward the other until they are securely fastened to the workpiece. Depending on the purpose, jaws are usually constructed of wood, plastic, or metal.

Bench vises are not need to be connected to workbenches; as long as the work surface is solid, they may be mounted directly to the surface or to the side. Vises that are connected directly to the surface include a swivel that allows the vise to revolve as required. Because many bench vises have metal jaws, lining the jaws with wood or a comparable material may help preserve the workpiece’s integrity. Jaws may be changed when they wear out. Certain bench vises may also be used as an anvil. Bench vises are classified based on their strength, durability, and intended use. Bench vises, both heavy duty and light duty, are often employed in industrial applications.

Heavy-Duty Bench Vises

Heavy-duty bench vises are usually constructed of iron and are referred to as machinists’ vices due to their ability to resist heavy applications and regular usage. Serrated steel jaws, a precise sliding bar, and an ACME-threaded main screw are all prominent components.

Fasteners should be bought, and fasteners for connecting the jaws to the vise often contain an extra pair of replacement jaws for use when the original set wears out. A typical heavy-duty bench vise will either be fixed or will rotate 360 degrees. Bench vises with pipe jaws are equipped with an additional pair of steel pipe jaws that spin 360 degrees and are interchangeable.

Medium Duty Bench Vises

Medium-duty bench vises are well-suited for a variety of applications. They are often constructed of iron and include interchangeable steel top jaws as well as pipe jaws. Numerous models have a 360-degree swivel and an integrated anvil. Jaw faces may be changed from serrated to smooth according on the application.

Pipe Vises

Pipe vises are used in plumbing to restrain pipes or tubing while cutting or threading. They can accommodate pipes as little as 3 mm in diameter up to 200 mm in length. They may be mounted on a workstation or used in conjunction with a portable tripod stand. Generally, a stand is used for tasks that occur outside of a workshop. They are collapsible for transporting, and they are often used in pairs or more for large lengths of pipe.

Chain Vises

Chain vises secure the pipe with a chain. A chain that clamps firmly around the pipe secures it in a V-shaped support. Typically, the chain is composed of high-tensile steel. Chain pipe vices are ideal for pipes or other irregularly shaped items. In contrast to hinged vices, they often have a greater working range and capacity, since the vice’s working range is limited only by the length of its chain. Due to the chain’s wide gripping area, it can firmly grasp the full circle of the pipe. However, using a chain pipe vice to secure a pipe takes longer than using other vises. This is because the chain must be inserted carefully between the tool’s jaws in order to securely clamp the pipe in place.

Yoke Vises

Yoke vises, sometimes called hinged vises or adjustable jaw vices, hold the pipe in place using a screw. Pipe lengths are held in place by a fixed v-shaped lower jaw and a movable top jaw. Both jaws are serrated to aid with gripping. After positioning the workpiece on the fixed jaw, the moving jaw is lowered and pressure is applied through a screw. A tommy-bar adjusts the distance between the jaws of the vice by turning the screw. Yoke vices are typically constructed of cast iron and may be fastened to a workbench or tripod stand.

Metalworking Vises

Metalworking vises, also known as engineer’s vises, are used to secure pieces of metal rather than wood in order to file and cut them. These vises are sometimes constructed of cast steel but are mostly constructed of cast iron.

Certain models include a cast iron body and a steel channel bar. Cast iron is a widely used material due to its rigidity, strength, and low cost. Jaws are often made of a distinct component to allow for easy replacement. Soft jaw coverings made of aluminum, copper, wood, or plastic may be utilized to protect sensitive work.

They are often fastened to a workbench, with the jaws’ faces protruding slightly beyond the front edge. Additionally, these vises may have a tiny anvil attached to the rear of their bodies, and the majority have a swivel base. Engineer’s vises, also known as machinist’s vises, are discussed in more detail in our guide here.

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Installing a Bench Vise https://dwellerpower.com/installing-a-bench-vise/ https://dwellerpower.com/installing-a-bench-vise/#respond Thu, 01 Sep 2022 21:20:12 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6759 Read more]]> Let’s face it: a workbench without vises is really nothing more than an assembly table. Vises offer the strength required to secure workpieces during planing, sawing, routing, and other tooling operations. The venerable Record vise is one of the many commercial types that has withstood the test of time because it is simple to install, simple to use, and built to last generations.

Although it is no longer manufactured, there are many clones available, including the Eclipse vise, which I demonstrate in this post. The characteristics of comparable vises may vary, but the attachment is the same.

I’ll show you two mounting possibilities here. The first is a straightforward technique that is ideal for an end vise application. The second method entails recessing the back jaw flush with the bench’s edge.

Because the whole length of a board held for edge work will touch the bench edge for support and further clamping, this is the ideal method for a face vise. Have your vise(s) ready before you begin, regardless of the kind of mounting, so you can establish the size of the spacers, jaws, and hardware required for a trouble-free installation.

Note: Knowing the best bench vise in the market is also great!

Vise Location and Selection

A vise’s location on the bench determines what it’s called. Face vises are connected to the bench’s front; end vises are fastened to the end. If you can only afford one, get a face vise.

Right-handers should install a face vise at the bench’s far left front edge and an end vise at the bench’s far right corner. Southpaws will want to do the opposite. Verify that the vise mechanism does not interfere with the bench legs during retrofitting. Adjust the top to fit the vise.

Because a face vise is utilized for both general work and edge planing, I suggest a bigger vise (at least 10″). A smaller end vise should work well with bench dogs to secure boards for face-planing. For face-planing and other tasks, I use a tiny (7″) model since the dog is only 312″ from the front edge of the bench.


Simple Vise Mounting

The simplest installation involves creating spacer blocks and fastening the vise to the bottom of a bench. To begin, remove the connecting bracket and front jaw, then degrease the vise.

Place the rear jaw upside down on the inverted benchtop and measure how far the top of the jaw extends below the bottom. 14″ for a 7″ vise, 12″ for a 10″ vice (The former is required for the smaller vise.)

Add enough to the cheek width to make it approximately 18″ above the bench surface when mounted. Next, use 34″-thick hardwood to create both cheeks the same size. Attach the rear cheek using flathead wood screws and the front cheek with roundhead screws and washers.

Creating a spacer (s). (Use two for a dog clearance end vise.) Plane them to the desired thickness, then size them to the mounting holes on the rear jaw bracket. Drill clearance holes through the spacers and sandwich the bracket between the bench and the blocks. Attach the spacers with screws or glue, then the vise with 3/8″ lag screws.

Reattach the connecting bracket, washer, and roll pin. After turning the benchtop upright, hand-plane the tops of the wooden cheeks flush to the benchtop.


Drilling Dog Holes

Because most vises come with a dog, a row of dog holes on your workbench makes logical. Most commercial dogs fit 34-mm holes bored perpendicular to the tabletop. Make a drill guide block from 2″ thick material by drilling a 34″ diameter hole in the middle.

Glue the block to a hooked standoff that meets the bench’s edge. (Align the hole with the vise’s dog.) Draw a centerline along the block’s back face for reference. Layout the dog hole locations on the bench using a square, 6″ apart beginning at the end.

Drill each hole by clamping the jig to the bench with a backup board below. Drill a 3″ brad-point bit into the hole.


Flash-Mount

Undoubtedly, a flush-mounted face vise provides the greatest flexibility. (Like before, disassembling the vise makes handling simpler.) First, mark the benchtop notch. The length should be the jaw width + 1 “. The depth should be the back jaw thickness + 34% “.

Backsaw the crosscut into the benchtop edge. Then use a circular saw to cut the notch with a straightedge clamped to the bench. Then rip the notch until it intersects the previous crosscut.

Make a strong hardwood spacer block to position the vise jaws 12 “below the top of the bench, measuring as for a straightforward installation. Mark the spacer with the jaw’s contour and screw holes. Next, drill four holes in the spacer block to secure it to the tabletop, avoiding the vise mounting screws. Counterbore the 716 “-diameter holes in the spacer block. The block should be centered in the notch, with the front edges flush. Attach the block to the tabletop using lag screws and washers, as indicated.

First, measure the thickness of the jaw to create the wooden cheek. Using a 1 inch thick hardwood board “Plane it to the jaw’s thickness if it’s broader. In order to make the rear jaw, align the bottom borders as indicated in Figure 1 “at either end To create the U-shaped cheek filler, crosscut and bandsaw the piece. Glue it on 34 “-similar size thick stock, as indicated.

Table saw the cheek assembly to rough width, leaving the filler at 58 “top-wide Cut it to size using a crosscut. Attach the cheek to the back jaw as indicated.

Place the vise on the spacer block, cheek in notch. Mark and drill pilot holes, then lag bolt the vise in place. Using a straightedge, align the jaw with the bench’s edge. If it’s prideful, plane it.

Make the front cheek, reassemble the vise, and flip the benchtop. Finish by hand-planing the cheeks. Because my bench had rounded sides, I chipped away the sharp cheek corner. Finally, wipe-on finish any bare wood surfaces.


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Types of Vises https://dwellerpower.com/types-of-vises/ https://dwellerpower.com/types-of-vises/#respond Thu, 01 Sep 2022 19:59:42 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6752 Read more]]> The most common types of Vises are the Woodworking Vise, Engineer’s Vise (also Known as Metalworking vise or Machinist’s Vise), and the Machine Vise, although there are other variations of specialty vises that will be discussed in this bench vise guide.

Vises are one of the most commonly used hand tools used in woodworking, metalworking, or jewelry making.

They are a device which is typically mounted on a workbench or other surface and which can be adjusted to hold various objects firmly as they are being worked upon by the user.

The device is commonly attached to an arm that moves along with the tool, locking it into place when it reaches its desired working position for a particular type of job.

If you’re also interested in looking for the best bench vise in the market, we have a great guide about that!

Woodworking Vise

Woodworking Vise

The vises used in woodworking are usually flush with the work surface of the workbench on which they are installed. Their jaws are constructed of wood or metal, with the latter being typically fronted with wood, which is referred to as cheeks, in order to prevent marring the piece of work being worked on. [1] Work against a bench dog may be held in place by the moveable jaw, which may have a retractable dog built in.

The “quick-release” vises use a split nut that enables the screw to be engaged and released with a half-turn of the handle. It is possible to move the moveable jaw in and out over its full range of motion while it is disengaged, significantly speeding up the procedure for adjustment. Acme and buttress are two common thread kinds.

When it comes to traditional workbench vises, they are either face vises, which are connected to the front of a workbench at the left end (for a right-handed worker), or end vises, which are attached to or form a part of the right end of the bench.

Face vises are available in a variety of configurations, including leg vises, which have a long extension that extends all the way to the floor and a mechanism that allows you to adjust the spacing of the bottom of the leg in order to keep the clamping surfaces of the jaws approximately parallel even when the work to be clamped has varying thicknesses.


Engineer’s Vise

Engineer's Vise

An engineer’s vise, also known as a metalworking vise or machinist’s vice, is a kind of vise that is used to clamp metal rather than wood. It’s used to keep metal in place during filing or cutting. It is occasionally constructed of cast steel or malleable cast iron, although the majority of the time it is made of cast iron.

Most heavy duty vises, on the other hand, are made of 55,000 psi cast steel or 65,000 psi ductile iron.

Some vises feature a steel channel bar but a cast iron body. Cast iron is popular because it is usually 30,000 psi grey iron that is stiff, robust, and reasonably priced.

Jaws are often detachable and interchangeable, and are typically etched with serrated or diamond teeth.

To protect sensitive work, soft jaw coverings made of aluminum, copper, wood (for woodworking), or plastic may be utilized. An engineer’s vise’s jaw opening is usually always the same size as the jaw breadth, if not larger.

An engineer’s vise is fastened to the top surface of a workbench, with the fixed jaws’ face just ahead of the workbench’s front edge.

Other characteristics of the vise may include a tiny anvil on the rear of its body. The majority of engineer’s vises feature a swivel base. Some “Homeowner Grade” engineer’s vises are not constructed of steel or cast iron, but of pot metal or a very low grade of iron, usually with a tensile strength of less than 10 ksi.

The majority of bench vises used by homeowners feature an exposed screw.


Machine Vise

Drill presses, grinding machines, and milling machines all have machine vises. A particular kind of machine vise is incorporated into abrasive chop saws. Because of its cheap cost and medium size, several amateurs utilize a machine vise as a bench vise.


Vacuum Vise

A vacuum vise is a tool used by hobbyists to hold circuit boards, model aircraft, and other tiny tasks. They are suction-mounted and often feature an articulating joint in the center that allows the vise to rotate and swivel. Vacuum vises are also used by jewelers to hold jewelry.


Pipe Vise

Pipe Vise

Pipe vises are a kind of plumber’s equipment that is often used to keep pipes in position for threading and cutting. The two major types are chain and yoke. The yoke vise clamps down the pipe with a screw, while the chain vise secures the pipe with a chain.

It is intended to handle pipes with diameters as little as 3mm and as big as 200 mm. It may be mounted on a workstation or used in conjunction with a transportable tripod platform. The stand is often used for tasks that must be completed outside of the workshop; it is portable and simple to move. For longer lengths of pipe, it may also be joined in two or more sections.


Clamp-on Vise

Clamp-On Vise

Clamp-on vises are essentially lightweight bench vises. They typically have smooth jaws for woodworking, plastics, and light metalworking, although some have serrated jaws for greater metal grip. Some unusual vises combine these characteristics in a revolving form. They also aid with the security of an item while it is being worked on.


Combination Vise

Vises having the functions of a pipe vise and a metalworker’s vise combined. Some feature a rotating design that allows them to offer both bench and pipe jaws. Plumbers often utilize them.


Chain Vise

A chain vice secures the pipe using a chain. The chain clamps firmly around the pipe, holding it in a V-shape. Because this chain is constructed of high-tensile steel, it works well with irregularly shaped pipes or other items. Because the length of the chain restricts the vice’s operating range, the chain vice has a greater working range and capacity. The huge clamping area of the chain affects how firmly the whole circle of the pipe may be held. One of the most significant drawbacks of this vice is that it takes longer than other vices to secure a pipe in place. This is due to the chain having to be carefully threaded between the tool’s jaws in order to clamp the pipe securely in place.


Other Kinds of Vises:

Compound Slide Vise – A more complex machine vise. They allow speed and precision in the placement of the work.

Cross Vise – which can be adjusted using leadscrews in the X and Y axes; these are useful if many holes need to be drilled in the same workpiece using a drill press. Compare router table.

Off-center vise

Angle vise

Sine vise, which use gauge blocks to set up a highly accurate angle

Rotary vise

Suction vise

Diemakers’ vise

Saw vise – used for sharpening hand saws

Pin vise (for holding thin, long cylindrical objects by one end, or used as a drill (scale modeler’s pin vise))

Jewellers’ vise

Fly tying vise, used to secure fishing hook in fly tying

Leg vise, which is attached to a bench but also supported from the ground so as to be stable under the very heavy use imposed by a blacksmith’s work

Trailer hitch vise

Shaker broom vise

Rigging vise, otherwise known as a triangle vise or splicing vise, which has three jaws. Used to close thimbles and splice rope, cable, and wire rope.


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The #5 Jack Plane Facts https://dwellerpower.com/the-no5-jack-plane-facts/ https://dwellerpower.com/the-no5-jack-plane-facts/#respond Thu, 01 Sep 2022 18:51:50 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6725 Read more]]> I’d like to highlight Lie-No. Nielsen’s 5 Jack Plane. As regular readers of this Blog are likely aware, the “bench” planes begin with the No. 1 (very tiny) and go progressively up to the No. 8, which is the jointer and the biggest of the group.

As the numbers indicate, the No. 5 is quite near to the middle of the pack, both in terms of order and size.

The No. 5’s dimensions and materials are as follows: The plane is 14″ long and constructed of ductile iron, with a 2″ broad iron made of A2 steel that is.125″ thick, and weights a total of 5 1/2 lbs.

The length of the No. 5 allows it to double as a “jointer” when dealing with tiny pieces of wood, such as for small boxes or the like. This is another example of realizing the full potential of a tool.  

I believe we may sometimes pigeonhole ourselves (and our tools) and lose sight of the fact that we have the ultimate flexibility to choose how to best use our abilities and resources.

The bronze lever cap is both sturdy and attractive, while the cherry tote and knob feel fantastic in your hands and give an air of elegance to the jack plane.

The Jack  Plane is an extremely versatile and convenient sized hand plane to have in your kit, in fact it’s one of the most sought after type of hand plane, and is in the top of our Best Hand Plane Review Guide. 

Jack Plane Adjustments

On this plane, the frog (45 degrees) and body are completely machined to provide a strong fit and a firm grip on the iron, resulting in a predictable and controlled shaving.

The user may change the mouth opening without removing the lever cap or iron/chip breaker from the frog. The operation is straightforward yet robust.

Unlock the two lateral locking screws and then rotate the center adjustment screw clockwise (to advance the frog and close the mouth) or counter-clockwise (to open the mouth).

Always keep an eye on the leading edge of the iron as you shut the mouth to prevent it from inadvertently coming into touch with the front of the mouth and nicking or blunting your beautifully honed iron.

Once you’ve achieved the desired mouth openness, tighten the two locking screws and check that the specified shaving thickness fits through the new mouth size.


Where can I use a #5 Jack Plane

The No. 5’s usefulness may vary from that of a big format smoother to that of a tool for fast stock removal. As a smoother, I prefer to sharpen the iron with a barely noticeable camber in the first scenario, which minimizes the likelihood of any corner sinking into the wood.

I use David Charlesworth’s method of employing a simple honing guide on water stones and alternating between concentrated finger pressure on various parts of the iron and extra stone passes to control the removal of steel towards each corner.

I begin this shaping/honing process with a 1000 grit stone and end with an 8000 grit stone. For both stones, the iron is held in the guide at a 35-degree angle (a 10-degree microbevel, since the base angle is 25 degrees).

If you’ve never used a plane with a cambered iron, this is something you should attempt. Because such a tiny amount of steel is lost when this minor camber is created, you may easily restore to a straight cutting edge by just returning to your 1000 grit stone and continuing your normal procedure. If you wish to experiment with the cambered form.

Additionally, you may stop by one of the Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Events to see the team sharpening and ask any questions that may arise.

As an aside, the late (and brilliant) Alan Peters used his No. 7 (a considerably bigger plane than the No. 5) as his smoother, demonstrating the planes’ considerable versatility.

Jack Plane as a Stock Removal Tool

In the second situation, when the plane is used as a fast stock removal tool, I give the iron a more noticeable camber (though still very minor in comparison to the camber on a scrub plane iron), which creates a more narrowly concentrated wood removal region than the cambered smoothing iron’s form.

The corners of these irons are set back from the leading edge by about 1/32” – 1/16”, resulting in a progressive decrease in form from the iron’s center to each corner.

When I prepare this kind of iron for the first time, I use my grinder to effectively remove the extra metal, since even this apparently small quantity would take considerable time and effort if just sharpening stones were employed.

I usually use a gentle touch with the grinder to avoid inadvertently overheating the iron’s steel. I grind the iron freehand, rotating its cutting edge around an arc on the grinder’s rest to replicate the iron’s original 25-degree bevel.

I prefer to use a sharpie to make a line in the middle of the iron’s back and then approximately 1/32″ – 1/16″ down from the corners on each side, and then draw a shallow curve connecting the spots.

This serves as a visible guide for my grinding, ensuring that I do not go too far or remove more material from one side than the other.

If I realize I’ve achieved a beautiful, smooth curve over the iron, I’ll come to a halt, even if I’m not quite to the full depth at the corners.

Given that I know I’ll be bringing the iron to my honing stones next, there’s really no need for a certain form, as long as the curve is smooth and continuous.

The next honing will be done at a 35-degree angle (again, a 10-degree micro bevel), and will use the normal honing guide.

If you take your time and concentrate on gently transitioning over the curved iron, you can easily work the whole width of the iron in the honing guide.

If your corners remain unhoned on the honing stones, this just shows that your camber is more prominent. This is unimportant, since the corners of this form of iron never contact the wood.

Other Adjustments to the #5 Jack Plane

For each of these tasks, I set the plane’s mouth slightly wider than the shaving I want to remove, keeping the plane from jamming. When performing the smoothing function, the mouth is often very closed, since the anticipated shaving is extremely fine (on the order of.001” –.003”).

As you would imagine, I expand the mouth larger for the fast removal function, which allows for the passage of heavier shavings. It is considerably more comparable to the smoothing operation’s mouth for the jointer function, since the shaving is less dense, but the shaving still determines the opening.

Additional accessories, such as the frog adjuster screwdriver, chip breaker screwdriver, and plane socks to assist prevent rust, are available.


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New Stanley Hand Planes Review https://dwellerpower.com/new-stanley-hand-planes-review/ https://dwellerpower.com/new-stanley-hand-planes-review/#respond Thu, 01 Sep 2022 01:27:52 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6729 Read more]]> I decided to give a new Stanley Bevel Up Jack plane a try, and I was completely blown away. It was perfectly flat in all the appropriate areas straight out of the box, the bottom was square to the sides, and it produces a surface that rivals my Lie Nielsen smoother.

After that, I purchased a new Stanley block plane and had the same results.

Despite the fact that I paid about $150 more on it than I did on my Lie Nielsen Rabbet block plane, I find it to be more comfortable in my hand than my Lie Nielsen Rabbet block plane, which I hate to admit.

Without a doubt, the Nielsen planes are excellent, well-made planes, but for daily block plane usage, the Stanley is the one I grab for the most of the time. Everything about it feels excellent in my palm, and it constantly performs well.

So, when I was searching for a shoulder plane last year, I naturally looked at Lie Nielsen and Veritas first, but I decided to give the Stanley a go just to see how it worked. Once again, I’m taken aback by this tiny boy.

The only thing I’ve done to it is sharpen the blade, which I’ve done once a year for the last year. It worked well right out of the box. The shaving in the photo was done just now, this evening. Simple as picking something up and dragging it over a piece of wood

I believe that the new Stanley planes are on par with the two Lie Nielsen planes that I currently own; however, I wish that Stanley offered a larger selection of planes to choose from. Currently, the block plane, a #4, the low angle jack, and the shoulder plane are the only planes available for purchase new from Stanley.

I didn’t have to do anything other than sharpen the blades to get all of them to perform at a level equal to or better than the others. The Stanley is a formidable opponent for anything else on the market. As a consequence, I can get.0008” shavings off of any of them when I use a flat glass surface.

If you’re interested in a showdown between the two, we added them both in our Best Hand Plane Review.

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Selecting The Most Suitable Workbench Vise https://dwellerpower.com/selecting-the-most-suitable-workbench-vise/ https://dwellerpower.com/selecting-the-most-suitable-workbench-vise/#respond Thu, 01 Sep 2022 00:38:15 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6748 Read more]]> There are 3 Main Important factors when it comes to picking a good Bench Vise and those are knowing the Throat Depth of the Vise for vertical measurements, knowing the Jaw Width of the Vise for better pressure clamping, and lastly the Use of the Vise for proper application.

Having a bench vise is like having an extra pair of sturdy hands, to help you with your metal and woodworks. And, finding the right bench vise offers you not only better outputs but also helps you complete the work with precision.

What Does a Bench Vise Do?

When connected to a stable workbench, the bench vise aids in keeping the workpiece steady and free of vibrations while being worked on. Consequently, you will be able to experience more consistent plane strokes, smoother saw cuts, and superior sanding results. Despite the fact that bench vises are considered an essential tool by the vast majority of industrial workers (both metal and woodworkers), they are one of the most underappreciated equipment on the factory floor.

The use of incorrect bench vises has a negative impact on the quality of the job. By investing in the proper bench vise, you will be able to keep your work more stable and finish it more quickly. Now that you understand how important the modest bench vise is to your woodworking and metalworking projects, it’s time to choose the best bench vise for your shop’s needs.


How do You Pick a
Good Bench Vise

Throat Depth of the Vise

This is one of the most important things to take into consideration. When choosing a bench vise, it is important to consider the throat depth, which is the distance between the top side of the jaw and the top of the slide below the jaw on the other side. Bigger throat depths allow you to handle larger workpieces in your hands.

The Jaw Width of the Vise

Jaw widths of bench vises differ from one another. Bench vises with greater jaw widths are required for working with larger items.

Use of the Vise

At long last, you must determine how you will use the bench vise. What are your plans for putting it to use? Depending on the application, you may choose a bench vise that is designed to perform a particular function.

For example, if you often remove and hold different-sized workpieces, you should seek for vises that have a fast release mechanism for opening and closing. You will not have to manually wound and unwind the lead screw every time you change the workpiece since you will be changing the workpiece.


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Types of Hand Planes https://dwellerpower.com/types-of-hand-planes/ https://dwellerpower.com/types-of-hand-planes/#respond Wed, 31 Aug 2022 23:31:41 +0000 https://dwellerpower.com/?p=6717 Read more]]> There are Eleven (11) Main Types of Hand Planes, and they are: Block Planes. Smoothing Planes, Fore Planes, Jack Planes, Jointer Planes. Shoulder Planes, Bull Nose Planes, Rabbet Planes, Plough/Plow Planes. Router Planes, Japanese Planes

Hand planes are an indispensable tool for any woodworker, be it a DIYer or someone working in the trades.

All the best hand planes differ from each other in their form yet they are the woodworker’s favourite for smoothing or shaving wood, and not for cutting.

In this article we have put together the lowdown on all of the different types of planes that you might encounter, detailing how they work and when they are best suited for use, and features to look for.

Block Planes

Block planes, which measure about 150mm in length, are designed to be operated with one hand and are particularly effective at making delicate finishing cuts and cutting end grain.

It is customary to position the blade with the cutting bevel facing upwards rather than downwards, as opposed to a bench plane, since the blade is sitting at a lower angle than a bench plane.

Because of the shallow cutting angle, the blade is better able to slice through the wood fibers in the end grain, resulting in a fine, smooth finish.

Trimming planes and apron planes are two more types of block planes. Aprons planes are so named because they are tiny enough to fit into an apron pocket.

Smoothing Planes

In comparison to the other bench planes, the smoothing planes are the shortest and lightest in weight, making them ideal for taking final finishing cuts when flattening and smoothing boards to a high degree of smoothness.

The smoothing plane is normally the final plane to be utilized while smoothing a board from rough to smooth, and it is only employed when the board is flat that it is used.

A smoothing plane that has been properly sharpened and adjusted can leave a far finer surface on wood than can be obtained by sanding alone.

According to length, the No 3 smoothing plane is shorter, measuring about 175mm in length, and lighter than the No 4 smoothing plane, which typically measures approximately 200mm in length.

Jack Planes

Jack planes receive their name from the fact that they are the “Jack of all trades” planes in the workshop.

The general purpose Jack plane, or No 5 plane, as it is designated, is often the beginning point for any plane collection since it can be used for both flattening and smoothing boards, making it the most versatile bench plane in the workshop.

The Jack plane, which measures about 350mm in length, is significantly longer and heavier than the smoothing planes in comparison.

Fore Planes

The fore plane, also known as the No 6 plane, is the shortest of the bench planes available for flattening boards. It is used for flattening duties and is the shortest of the bench planes available for flattening boards.

The fore plane, which is about 460mm in length, features a sole that is lengthy enough to avoid following the peaks and troughs seen on an uneven board.

As an alternative, the fore plane flies over the troughs and only removes shavings from the peaks, leveling the board before smoothing it out completely. The fore plane may also be used to square material prior to edge-to-edge jointing, which can save time and money.

Jointer Planes

The No 7 and No 8 jointer, which are the longest planes ever made, are the longest planes ever made.

Their main purpose, as their name implies, is to straighten the sides of boards preparatory to jointing them together.

The No 7 plane is about 510mm in length, while the No 8 plane measures approximately 600mm in length. These planes have lengthy soles that enable them to glide over peaks and troughs in the surface of the board, cutting away from the peaks until the edge of the board is completely flat.

Jointer planes may also be used to smooth the surfaces of boards that have been glued together.

Shoulder Planes

Shoulder planes, in contrast to bench planes and block planes, have blades that span the whole width of the plane, rather than just the front or back.

This enables the plane to cut over its full width without squeezing.

Even while it is mainly used for cutting rebates like as those found on tenon shoulders, it is also excellent for trimming and cutting right up to a corner, and shoulder planes have flat sides to enable for this to be done easily.

Shoulder planes are available in a variety of sizes to accommodate a wide range of jobs.

Bull Nose Planes

The bullnose plane, a shorter variant of the shoulder plane, is used for finer work such as taking finishing cuts when installing tenons, as well as for small-scale projects.

Some bull nose planes feature detachable fronts that enable them to be converted into chisel planes, enabling the blade to be used to work around corners.

On these planes, the blades are often somewhat broader than the body in order to avoid the body from binding on the rebate wall. This guarantees that the cut is straight and square.

Rabbet Planes

The rabbet or rebate plane, although similar in function to the shoulder plane, differs in a number of ways in terms of physical appearance. rabbet planes, like shoulder planes, feature blades that extend the entire width of the plane’s body, enabling them to cut flat to the side of the workpiece, similar to how shoulder planes do.

Rabbet planes, in contrast to shoulder planes, contain fences that reference the face of the board being rebated, ensuring that the cut is precisely straight throughout.

On these planes, a depth stop is built in to guarantee that the necessary cut depth is not exceeded during operation.

Some rabbet planes are additionally equipped with a sharp spur that cuts through the wood fibers ahead of the plane blade, resulting in a clean cut when rebating across the grain with the plane blade in place.

In order to fit drawer bottoms into drawers, the plough plane is used to cut lengthy grooves and dadoes in boards, such as those required for fitting drawer bottoms into drawers.

Plough/Plow Planes

Plough planes are equipped with adjustable fences that utilize the edge of the board as a reference to guarantee that the cut is parallel to the side of the board while cutting.

Typically, these planes are provided with a variety of blades, each of which is capable of cutting a groove of a particular width.

When it is critical that the groove be cut precisely, this method is often employed in place of a router.

Router Planes

The router plane, which resembles a cross between a hand plane and a spokeshave in appearance, is mainly used for cleaning out grooves, dadoes, and extremely shallow mortices in woodworking.

Despite the fact that the router plane is often provided with a fence for straight work, it may also be used free hand. When using the router plane, the blade may be sliced in two different locations.

The blade of the first plane in board position is completely encircled by the plane body. The blade is at the outboard position in the second position, with the blade visible at the front.

This second position enables the router plane to cut straight into the corners of the object being worked on.

Japanese Planes

The Japanese hand plane is a simple, but highly effective idea that utilizes an edged, sharp iron blade housed inside a wooden body.

Due to the fact that this component is pulled rather than pushed towards the operator, the aircraft is more accurate and less tiring to operate.

These planes have wooden bodies, which are less prone to mark or harm the surface of the work than metal-bodied planes, and are thus suitable for both delicate work and more demanding planing.

The bodies of these planes are all constructed of Japanese white oak, which is a strong, straight-grained wood that is particularly well suited for woodworking equipment.

By striking the blade with a hammer or mallet, you may make minor changes to it.

Features to Consider when Buying a Hand Plane

Type of Frog

The frog is an essential factor to consider when purchasing a bench plane since it is the only component of the plane that holds the blade. The frog’s design and how well it fits into the aircraft’s body will ultimately decide how well the plane operates.

Today, there are two major types of frogs: Bailey and Bedrock.

Most hand planes have a Bailey frog that rests on top of a machined surface on the plane body. This kind of frog is fully adjustable and is kept in place by two screws that can only be reached after the plane iron assembly has been removed.

Once the screws have been released, a tiny adjustment knob on the rear of the frog may be used to alter the position of the frog to open or shut the plane mouth.

In contrast, the Bedrock type frog, which similarly rests on a machined surface on the plane’s body, has a depression on each side that positively locates the frog on two ridges in the aircraft body. This maintains the frog perpendicular to the body.

Using two screws on the rear of the frog, the Bedrock frog can be adjusted to open and shut the plane’s mouth without removing the plane iron assembly.

Angle of the Blade

The angle of a plane’s blade has a significant impact on how and what it can cut. Block planes, which are presented at a lower angle to the wood, are ideal for cutting end grain because the blade cuts rather than scratches.

Blades having extremely high angles, such as scraper planes and certain Chinese planes, are excellent for handling exotic woods and burrs with complicated grain patterns because they reduce rip out. Unless otherwise stated, most bench planes will offer the cutting edge at a 45-degree angle to the wood, allowing the plane to operate effectively on most hardwoods and softwoods.

Before selecting a plane, think about the kinds of wood you’ll be working with and the type of planing you’ll be performing.

Thickness of the Blade

The amount of rigidity in the blade is determined by the thickness of the blade.

Because of the thinness of the blade, it may flex somewhat during the cutting process, resulting in chattering noises. The surface of the wood will be left with a poor, almost ridged finish as a result of this.

Greater resistance to bending is provided by thicker blades, which result in significantly smoother finishes.

Metal or Wooden Body

The benefits and drawbacks of both metal and wood bodied planes are. Metal cavities are significantly heavier than their wooden equivalents and are more harder to wear, in particular when dealing with more abrasive wood.

The lightweight of the hardwood body is helpful for extended hours while planting and the wood sole will not mark or harm the job as a metal body may do.

The workshop’s workshop is made of metal bodied planes, while wooden planes are excellent when leaving a very good finish on every wood.


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