[GUIDE] Bench Plane Numbers Guide | #1 Bench Plane Guide

Smoothing Planes

The smoothing plane is usually the final plane to be used on a wood surface, removing extremely fine shavings to leave a smooth finish. It removes very fine shavings to leave a smooth finish. When used properly, it provides a finish that is on par with or better than that produced by sandpaper in a short period of time.

Let’s start at the very bottom of the scale, with the smoothing planes, and work our way up. The majority of people end up having a number of these (sometimes even in the same sizes).

Why?

There are a plethora of options to select from, as well as many configuration options.

The No. 1 Bench Plane

• Sole length: 5-1/2″
• Cutter width: 1-1/4″

The No. 1 bench plane is highly sought after by collectors. It is a pampered exotic little puppy. The design is intended to encourage consumers to pick it up and exclaim, “It’s so adorable!

It is simple to spend $1,000 on a vintage No. 1 bench plane, which is why it is packaged to make you want to buy it. It must be a really helpful and wonderful bench plane, wouldn’t you say? Nope.

Some woodworkers choose to use the No. 1 instead of a block plane, due to arthritis, as a number 1 is smaller and fits the palm easily. For youngsters, some woodworkers may purchase a No. 1. Additionally, some woodworkers use the No. 1 for smaller-scale projects, including linenfold panels.

In truth, however, the No. 1 is often useless for furniture construction, and there is just not enough room in front of the tote to be able to hold it, as well as changing the depth of cut is difficult due of the little workspace behind the frog.

Adding to that, you’ll find that the cutter is very small, thus you will be spending a lot of time and effort to plane a normal side of a carcass.

It’s definitely something you should get because you desire it. And be aware that you’ll utilize just a small fraction of it, but most woodworkers will display it on a shelf and appreciate it.

The No. 2 Bench Plane

• Sole length: 7″
• Cutter width: 1-5/8″

People have an affinity for them, but the No. 2’s value does not compare to the No. 1. They can’t understand woodworkers’ bewilderment with them, yet it’s difficult to hold on to the tote, since materials are crammed in there. You feel like an uncomfortable giant since you are able to wield tremendous power when you grasp the instrument.

The No. 2 smoothing plane, which is large enough for children’s hands, doesn’t seem to be too weighty for them.

The 2-1/4 pound ones were the antique ones. And in all my years, I’ve heard of just one person who had unusually tiny hands, as if they were built for a No. 2. Besides that, I believe the No. 2 bench plane should be avoided unless you find some special need for it.

The No. 3 Bench Plane

• Sole length: 8″
• Cutter width: 1-3/4″

Perhaps the most underappreciated piece of equipment in the pantheon is the No. 3. Although it’s tiny, it gets thrown in with the “cute but useless” group along with the top two choices. Everything you just said is nonsense. The No. 3 is the smallest bench plane I would offer in my range. It’s a very good tool.

With ease, you can reach around the tote and manipulate the settings because the knob is large enough to handle like a conventional bench plane, it is the primary handle for this plane.

While the cutter is just just broad enough to be a practical size, it is nevertheless precise enough to cut the smaller pieces.

 So what’s the point? When working on extremely tiny components (such as rails, stiles, mullions, and muntins), I like to use a No. 3 bench plane. It works very well for smoothing. For finer work, though, I often use a No. 2 bench plane.

This is excellent for smaller components since you don’t risk tipping or tilting when balancing the tool on material that is just 3/4″ broad.

Tear-out removal is achieved by the short length of the sole. A smaller sole lets the tool get into more precise locations on a board and get rid of tear-out. It is impossible to remove more than a shave (maybe two) in a small region with a long sole on a No. 4 or bigger plane.

The No. 4 Bench Plane

• Sole length: 9″
• Cutter width: 2″

A traditional No. 4 smoothing plane is the most often seen size.

It is a good balance between the length of the sole and the breadth of the cutter, which is great for standard furniture pieces.

Additionally, it is essential to remember that the last portion of that phrase is that standard furniture components are also required.

Typical furniture components include widths ranging from 2 inches to 24 inches and lengths from 12 inches to 48 inches.

Some people have suggested that the No. 4 could be helpful and popular. 10 No. 4s are usually found for everyone No. 3.

Most of my usual cabinet work is done with a No. 4. As a result, I installed a 50-degree frog on my No. 4 to assist minimize ripping (an additional 55-degree frog is available for this purpose for curly-grained woods). A bevel-up plane works well on domestic woods and exotics, but it’s not the plane I use when the task is really challenging.

Also an essential aspect of the No. 4: It’s light, so you won’t tire fast.

The No. 4-1/2 Bench Plane

• Sole length: 10″
• Cutter width: 2-3/8″

An inch makes all the difference. But the metal used for the No. 4-1/2 is a game-changer as well. These days, more people use the No. 4-1/2 smoothing plane than in the years after Stanley being the only game in town. What might it be used for? Positive publicity. Woodworkers have extolled the virtues of this instrument, which is known as “The Wood Whisperer”. Furthermore, in our society, we tend to prefer products that have been exaggerated to Super Size proportions.

The No. 4-1/2 is a superb tool, but I’m prone to use it up quicker due to its weight and larger blade. A tool will need to be pushed harder in order to move it ahead.

However, a broader cutter gets the job done in fewer strokes, so you may as well give it a go. The weight of the tool also contributes to the stability in the cut since less downward pressure is required on your part. So, determining if something is a trade-off isn’t that easy.

I believe the No. 4-1/2 is good for those woodworkers who like larger-scale furniture and for those who work with heavier wood. The No. 4-1/2 is for you if you construct tables or dining setss. Working in an armoire shop will make you a fan of it.

The No. 5-1/2 Bench Plane

• Sole length: 15″
• Cutter width: 2-1/4″ or 2-3/8″

Actually, that is not a mistake. When I was checking the No. 5-1/2 in the smoothing plane area, I realized I intended to put it in that part. A smooth plane is used much more frequently than it was a decade ago, even though the No. 5-1/2 is 6″ longer than a normal smoothing plane.

This is for what reason? David Charlesworth, an English furniture maker. Charlesworth has been a vocal supporter of having a large tool that is referred to as a “super smoother” in a contemporary woodshop. Between a jointer plane and a smoothing plane, the No. 5-1/2 lies in the middle, which is why this configuration works.

This is a quick and concise way to describe the fact that the No. 5-1/2 is of equal size to a historical English panel plane, a kind of equipment that was rare in the United States. As a result, English carpenters would use a panel plane to get a clean finish on big surfaces.

For woodworkers who do not want to set up a lot of planes, the contemporary No. 5-1/2 is a great match. To utilize the No. 5-1/2 to trues up the job and refine the stock at the same time, you have to dress your timber with your machines and then use your No. 5-1/2.

A one-size-fits-all solution often doesn’t meet expectations. Your relatively small foot size makes it tough for you to access hidden spaces to get rid of torn-out skin (shorter tools do this with ease). Additionally, to shoot long edges while gluing together panels, the equipment is hard to use since it is tough to utilize a jointer plane.

However, if you own and use equipment, the No. 5-1/2 handles over 90% of your day-to-day tasks. I’ve used Charlesworth’s techniques on a number of projects, and I find that they are accurate and dependable.

Bevel-Up Smoothing Planes

• Sole length: 9-1/2″ to 10″
• Cutter width: 2″ to 2-1/4″

Smoothing planes, especially the contemporary bevel-up designs, have lately gained a lot of popularity. They are simpler tools (without a chip breaker or moveable frog), and they are far less costly than their bevel-down counterparts. They are also easy to setup, and doing so has the additional benefit of enabling planing at greater angles, resulting in a lower rate of tear-out.

Advantages like this led me to describe the bevel-down smoothing planes in depth. It seems to be obvious.

First, you have to know where the controls are located. Bevel-down planes are set up the way that the blade adjuster is in front of your fingertips. To change the depth, you don’t even have to withdraw your hand from the bag. With the bench plane in motion, you may also make adjustments to the cutter. This is something I often do.

Because bevel-up planes have controls placed low on the tool, it is not possible to use the tool while holding the tote in place.

Another trade-off: a mechanism to regulate lateral movement. Separate depth and lateral adjustment knobs are used on conventional bevel-down planes (which centers the cutter in the mouth of the tool).

The two controls of Veritas’s bevel-down planes are all in one single control, known as a Norris-style adjuster. This arrangement appeals to certain individuals. It is difficult for some people to manage the two functions, therefore they find it difficult to deal with it (depth and lateral adjustment).

The Lie-Nielsen bevel-up plane, the No. 164, offers a distinct feature set because of its adjustable lateral adjustment using hammer taps.

Second trade-off: simplicity. Working with the bevel-up planes may be unsettling if you prefer conventional bevel-down planes. there is no spot on the tote where you may put your index finger You feel vulnerable, uncomfortable, and incomplete when you’re unable to extend your index finger.

Note that although bevel-up planes are exceptional tear-out-eliminators, it is not to say that they are without shortcomings. Honing the cutter to a higher angle raises the cutting pitch of the plane, making it possible to plane with a lower initial bevel angle. This is a massive benefit, and it’s why I keep one bevel-up tool available that’s set at 62°.

If you deal with exotic woods or curls, the conventional bevel-down tools would be completely useless for you. That is my point of view. Straight to the bevel-up models would be my first choice. You’ll be delighted.

However, before you make a purchase, you should be aware of the trade-offs between the two styles. On the other hand, it makes sense to get hands-on with each format to find out which you like.

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